This is a container clue - look for indicators like 'around', 'holding', 'outside', 'embracing' where one part wraps around another
Join the wordplay parts together in sequence
Answer: MUTTONHEADED | Definition: 'Gormless' | Wordplay: TON=”fashion” (from French usage as in e.g. ‘bon ton’) plus HEAD=”leader”; with MUTED=”subtle” going around (“clothes”)